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Moonphase Watches

Of all the astronomical complications found on watches, the moonphase is the most common. Displaying the different phases of the moon—often via an aperture—it’s one of the most aesthetically appealing complications, evoking our endless fascination with Earth’s closest satellite.

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The size of a watch is very important for style and comfort. If you prefer an oversized watch like a Panerai Luminor, you’ll probably want Large. If you’re looking for something more discreet like a Rolex Lady Datejust, you’ll want Small. For everything in between, Medium.
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Panerai Radiomir Automatic PAM00214

Panerai
Radiomir Automatic
PAM00214

Box
Papers
Year 2016
€5,690
IWC Pilot's Mark XX IW328206

IWC
Pilot's Mark XX
IW328206

Box
Papers
Year 2025
€5,175
Tag Heuer Carrera Ladies WV2411.BA0793

Tag Heuer
Carrera Ladies
WV2411.BA0793

Box
Papers
Year 2002
€1,380
Omega Constellation Ladies 123.18.35.60.56.001

Omega
Constellation Ladies
123.18.35.60.56.001

Box
Papers
Year 2011
€4,540
Rolex Explorer 124270
New Price
Manufacturer's Warranty

Rolex
Explorer
124270

Box
Papers
Year 2021
€7,200
Rolex Datejust 16233
New Price
Vintage

Rolex
Datejust
16233

Box
Papers
Year 1995
€7,015
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club IW390212
New Price

IWC
Portugieser Yacht Club
IW390212

Box
Papers
Year 2016
€5,750
Bvlgari Octo 101963

Bvlgari
Octo
101963

Box
Papers
Year 2015
€16,955
Chopard Alpine Eagle 295387-9001

Chopard
Alpine Eagle
295387-9001

Box
Papers
Year 2023
€22,940
Blancpain Villeret 1185-1418-55
Vintage

Blancpain
Villeret
1185-1418-55

Box
Papers
Year 2001
€5,460
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15450BA.OO.1256BA.01

Audemars Piguet
Royal Oak
15450BA.OO.1256BA.01

Box
Papers
Year 2017
€57,500
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde J003034201

Jaquet Droz
Grande Seconde
J003034201

Box
Papers
Year 2021
€10,290
Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars 26380BC.OO.D002CR.01

Audemars Piguet
Jules Audemars
26380BC.OO.D002CR.01

Box
Papers
Year 2018
€14,200
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 47101/000J4
Vintage

Vacheron Constantin
Les Historiques
47101/000J4

Box
Papers
Year 2001
€21,275
Piaget Altiplano G0A29120

Piaget
Altiplano
G0A29120

Box
Papers
Year 2006
€8,025
Piaget Altiplano G0A44112
Manufacturer's Warranty

Piaget
Altiplano
G0A44112

Box
Papers
Year 2021
€20,240
Panerai Luminor Chrono PAM00525

Panerai
Luminor Chrono
PAM00525

Box
Papers
Year 2016
€14,890
Panerai Manifattura Luminor PAM00289

Panerai
Manifattura Luminor
PAM00289

Box
Papers
Year 2011
€17,420
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01112

Panerai
Luminor Marina
PAM01112

Box
Papers
Year 2023
€18,685
Panerai Radiomir 8 days PAM00395

Panerai
Radiomir 8 days
PAM00395

Box
Papers
Year 2013
€15,235
Omega De Ville Tresor 432.58.40.21.05.001

Omega
De Ville Tresor
432.58.40.21.05.001

Box
Papers
Year 2024
€13,680
Hublot Big Bang 341.PB.131.RX

Hublot
Big Bang
341.PB.131.RX

Box
Papers
Year 2017
€15,600
Zenith Pilot 87.2430.4035/21.C721

Zenith
Pilot
87.2430.4035/21.C721

Box
Papers
Year 2014
€24,090
Omega Constellation Ladies 131.50.28.60.55.001
Manufacturer's Warranty

Omega
Constellation Ladies
131.50.28.60.55.001

Box
Papers
Year 2023
€11,960
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional 310.60.42.50.99.002

Omega
Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
310.60.42.50.99.002

Box
Papers
Year 2022
€34,000
IWC Portofino Automatic IW356516

IWC
Portofino Automatic
IW356516

Box
Papers
Year 2016
€9,775
IWC Portofino Automatic IW458106

IWC
Portofino Automatic
IW458106

Box
Papers
Year 2016
€10,635
IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar IW502121

IWC
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
IW502121

Box
Papers
Year 2010
€22,940
Blancpain Villeret 4040-1542-55

Blancpain
Villeret
4040-1542-55

Box
Papers
Year 2003
€10,385
Rolex Datejust Lady 6917
Vintage

Rolex
Datejust Lady
6917

Box
Papers
Year 1981
€9,750
Rolex Datejust 116139

Rolex
Datejust
116139

Box
Papers
Year 2005
€12,810
Rolex Mid-Size Datejust 68278
Vintage

Rolex
Mid-Size Datejust
68278

Box
Papers
Year 1986
€13,740
Rolex Mid-Size Datejust 68279
Vintage

Rolex
Mid-Size Datejust
68279

Box
Papers
Year 1999
€15,235
Rolex Mid-Size Datejust 68279
Vintage

Rolex
Mid-Size Datejust
68279

Box
Papers
Year 1989
€13,710
Rolex Submariner 16808
Vintage

Rolex
Submariner
16808

Box
Papers
Year 1981
€27,600
Rolex Day-Date 18238
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
18238

Box
Papers
Year 1994
€24,090
Rolex Day-Date 118339

Rolex
Day-Date
118339

Box
Papers
Year 2001
€30,000
Rolex Day-Date 18238
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
18238

Box
Papers
Year 1990
€21,850
Rolex Day-Date 18238
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
18238

Box
Papers
Year 1994
€27,900
Rolex Day-Date 1803
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
1803

Box
Papers
Year 1968
€10,170
Rolex Day-Date 18238
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
18238

Box
Papers
Year 1997
€15,525
Rolex Day-Date 118239
Vintage

Rolex
Day-Date
118239

Box
Papers
Year 2001
€24,090

Moonphase Watches

The Moon has held us spellbound for millennia and continues to be an object of fascination, even now that science—helped by NASA’s moon landings and subsequent lunar research—has helped demystify it.

For ancient civilizations the Moon was commonly a symbol of fertility, but lunar cycles were also observed for practical reasons since they indicated the passing of days, months, seasons and years. By tracking the cycle of the Moon, our ancestors were able to conceive the first primitive lunar calendars, with the first astronomical “computer”—the Antikythera Mechanism—emerging in Greece in the second century BC.

The earliest known moonphase indicators appeared on 14th-century clocks, in particular ones that adorned the towers of cathedrals and town squares, enabling local residents to observe them with ease. However, it wasn't until the 17th century that the moonphase complication as we know it today found its way into pocket watches.

Christiaan Huygens, a Dutch astronomer and mathematician, was instrumental in developing moonphase complications in a clock, devising a mechanism that accurately depicted the moon's phases. This major breakthrough in 1675 allowed for the eventual miniaturization of moonphase displays, making them suitable for inclusion in portable pocket watches. In the days before electricity, these were especially useful to long-distance travellers and coachmen who depended on the light of a full moon for nocturnal journeys.

The golden age of moonphase watches occurred during the 19th century when pioneering watchmakers like the great Abraham-Louis Breguet created timepieces that blended technical innovation with aesthetic elegance. Breguet's work laid the foundation for the moonphase complications that would become a staple in luxury watchmaking.

By the early 20th century, wristwatches were outselling pocket watches, and moonphase indicators were being incorporated into the finest models money could buy. Watchmakers such as Patek Philippe—who were the first to put this complication in a wristwatch in 1925— Universal Geneve Audemars Piguet and Breitling all entered the game.

By the time of the quartz revolution in the latter half of the 20th century, the mechanical moonphase complication, as with so many complications, became an anachronism. Yet it remained a hallmark of exclusivity and craftsmanship, the intricate gears and wheels required for accurate moonphase displays posing too great a challenge for cheap mass production.

These days the romance of moonphase watches continues to captivate watch lovers. Modern advancements in horology have allowed for even more precise and detailed depictions of lunar cycles. And high-end watchmakers are increasingly replacing the conventional crescent-shaped moonphase aperture—typically featuring a painted moon and stars—with more creative renditions of our satellite. These include three-dimensional displays or even discs made from genuine slivers of meteorite—enhancing the watch’s celestial appeal.

A moonphase indicator on a watch typically comprises a crescent-shaped aperture on the dial which partially reveals a rotating disc beneath. On this disc is a full Moon—often in gold and accompanied by a scattering of stars for aesthetic effect—which “waxes and wanes” as it passes along the curved aperture. These cyclical progressions represent the four main phases of the moon as seen from Earth.

These four main phases are: the new Moon, when the Sun and Moon are aligned and the Moon cannot be viewed from Earth; the first quarter, when the Sun hits the right half of the moon; the full Moon, when all of the facing surface is illuminated; and the third quarter when only the left half of the moon is on view.

In terms of the movement, the rotating disc itself is controlled by a 59-tooth driving wheel, which uses a finger attached to the hour wheel to advance the disc one notch every 24 hours. When a lunar cycle is complete, a second Moon on the disc moves into view and the process starts again. Why a 59-tooth driving wheel? That’s because a lunar cycle lasts 29.5 days and there are two moons on the disc (29.5 x 2 = 59).

The moonphase isn’t horology’s most accurate complication. Basic models will need occasional correction, just like any mechanical watch. But there are high-end models with specially calculated movements capable of delivering an accurate moonphase to the nearest day for hundreds of years or more. And anyhow, accuracy matters little for most moonphase devotees. Above all a moonphase watch serves as a reminder of our deep attachment to Earth’s only satellite, and to our distant ancestors who depended on it so much.

A moonphase display can be incorporated into watches at the highest end of the price spectrum but can just as often be found in watches at more accessible price points. You can find great entry-level moonphase watches from brands such as Baume & Mercier and Longines. Among the elite brands, several iconic Patek Philippe watches feature a moonphase display, with the contemporary Sky Moon tourbillon and the vintage reference 1518 the most revered, while A. Lange & Sohne’s 1815 Moonphase is considered a masterpiece. Sought-after vintage moonphase watches from Rolex include the reference 6062, produced in tiny numbers in the early 1950s, and the even earlier 8171.

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